Baja Divide - Day 15 • Bahia de los Angeles to 28°31′41″ N 113°9′25″ W

Baja Divide - Day 15
January 9, 2025 Bahia de los Angeles to 28°31′41″ N  113°9′25″ W - 52 Miles
Start 8:09 AM
Finish 6:40 PM
Total Duration 8:30
Moving Time 7:13
Stopped Time 1:18
Ascent 2,630’
Descent 2,437’
Tour Total 680 Miles

I slept soundly at Ricardo's cabaña, Casa Sol, in Bahía de los Ángeles. Primarily a scuba operation, Ricardo's also offers rooms, cabañas, and a small tourist store. Light filtered through my window at 6 AM, stirring me awake. I shaved my scraggly face and tightened the bolts on one of my water bottle racks. My stomach protested, so I took some medication. My trousers, already shredded, now had another tear in the back.

In town, I stopped by the supermarket to stock up: 3 liters of water, a strawberry-banana licuado, and two packs of cookies. I would be carrying a total of 5 liters of water.

The news reported major fires in Los Angeles, USA. I’d heard of fires nearby as well, around Ojos Negros. There were also reports of snow in the high-loop section near Vicente Guerrero, with roads temporarily closed.

Bahía de los Ángeles is a charming, tranquil town perched on the vibrant blue Sea of Cortéz and surrounded by rugged mountains. An eco-tourist economy supports the many expats living here.

I rode out of town, passing the cemetery and junkyard. I had expected tarmac but was met with heavily washboarded sand and rock. The sun beat down from a cloudless sky. I wore a long-sleeved shirt and gilet but quickly shed layers as the heat built up.

Today marked two weeks on the road, with about a week left to reach one of two possible destinations. South of town, I passed signs and turn-offs for ranch accommodations. After a climb, the route descended back toward the sea, revealing clusters of small buildings and boats bobbing in the water.

A Land Rover filled with soldiers rumbled past me, heading the opposite way.

The loose sand and rough washboard surface made for slow progress. By 10 AM, I had only covered 10 miles. My stomach remained manageable, fueled by cookie breaks. Despite my efforts, I’d only reached 16 miles by 11 AM.

The road wound around a mountain range toward a coastal point, climbing steadily. The mountains flanking me were striking in their jagged splendor. A white pickup with yellow tubing strapped to its bed passed by, heading my way.

Frequent cookie breaks in the shade of sparse trees punctuated my ride. By 1 PM, I had managed 29 miles. The landscape shifted; cacti and cirios trees had vanished, replaced by low, scraggly bushes. Thorn bushes with vibrant red blooms added splashes of color to the arid scene.

The wind picked up, giving me a welcome tailwind when heading southeast. At 2:30, I crested a ridge and glimpsed the Sea of Cortéz once more, shimmering under a three-quarter moon. By then, I’d traveled 39 miles.

A final steep climb awaited before reaching the sea again. At 3:44 PM, I arrived at the turn-off for San Rafael, having covered 47 miles. The village consisted of a dozen or so shacks, some with abandoned vehicles out front. A generator hummed steadily. The relentless coastal wind made camping here unappealing.

With about 45 minutes of daylight left, I pressed on. The landscape transitioned to flat dirt dotted with cacti and bushes—ideal for camping.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, I stopped riding. Before pitching my tent, I lubed my chain. By 5:30, darkness enveloped me. I shivered in my tent, eating refried beans and editing this report under the vast desert sky.








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