Baja Divide - Day 14 • Rosarito to Bahia de los Angeles

Baja Divide - Day 14
January 8, 2025 Rosarito to Bahia de los Angeles - 57 Miles
Start 8:09 AM
Finish 5:24 PM
Total Duration 9:15
Moving Time 7:39
Stopped Time 1:37
Ascent 2,848’
Descent 3,234’
Tour Total 628 Miles

I had a restful night in Room Six at the Cactus Hotel in Rosarito. However, I’d forgotten to close the bathroom window, letting in the chill of the early morning air along with the sounds of nearby idling semi-trucks and roosters crowing. My packing was slow and deliberate—I needed to repack my tent and sleeping bag after airing them out, and I had to lube my bike chain before setting off. Still full from last night’s meal, I decided to skip breakfast. Unfortunately, my socks were damp and cold from being laundered the night before.

I cycled back across town to rejoin the route. The chilly air called for my long-sleeve shirt and gilet, though the sun was strong in a cloudless sky.

Today’s journey would take me to the Sea of Cortez. Along the way, I planned to visit a Spanish mission dating back to the 1700s.

Leaving Rosarito, the landscape opened up to ranches and grazing cows, some of which spooked at the sight of my bike. A dog chased me briefly, adding a burst of excitement to the morning. The road led towards a series of tall mesas, dotted with cirio trees, agave, Joshua trees, and spindly, octopus-like cacti. The terrain was a mix of gravel, sand, chunky rocks, and relentless washboards. By 9 a.m., I had covered just six miles.

The road’s condition improved, allowing me to clip in and gain some speed. At a fork in the trail, I noticed large rocks blocking one path. Trusting my GPS, I followed this blocked path, which led to a deep rut requiring me to lower my bike into it. The ravine was an arroyo filled with sand, forcing me into a grueling hike-a-bike for over a mile.

Eventually, I rejoined the main dirt road, entering at another point that was also blocked with large stones. In hindsight, I should’ve trusted my gut rather than relying solely on the GPS, though the tracks of other cyclists had misled me as well.

Further along, I encountered another blocked section. Ignoring the GPS this time, I stuck to the travelled path, which led me smoothly back to the route without any hike-a-bike. I passed through a tree-thick arroyo before arriving at a ranch with several buildings, motor vehicles, and cattle. Shortly after, I spotted two windmills and a vast area filled with giant cardón cacti.

By noon, I caught sight of the mission in the distance. To reach it, I had to cross a wide arroyo, just as a truck hauling a trailer with a cow rumbled past.

The Mission Church at San Borja, established in 1762, was a fascinating stop. Danielle, a local, gave me a tour of the historic site.

As I resumed my ride towards Bahía de los Ángeles, 35 miles away, clouds began to gather, and the air grew chilly. I donned my gilet again to combat the headwind.

The road turned rugged, with sections of rock fields and ominous skies threatening rain. A light drizzle began but soon gave way to sunshine by 2 p.m., allowing me to see my shadow again. By this time, I had covered 30 miles.

The descent towards the coast was challenging. Strong headwinds and bone-rattling rocky sections slowed my progress. Crossing a cattle grate, I passed a handsome ranch before hitting yet another sand pit.

Just as the utility poles of Mexico Highway 12 came into view, I encountered more sand. Frustrated, I decided to bushwhack directly to the highway, only to be stabbed repeatedly by sharp, prickly plants. By 4:12 p.m., I had ridden 44 miles and was still 10 miles away from Bahía de los Ángeles, with darkness approaching.

The highway was quiet, with little traffic, and a heavy mist hung in the air as I pedaled through a canyon. My bike lights blazed in the dimming light of the short winter day.

At last, I crested a hill and saw the distant lights of Bahía de los Ángeles. Signs for hotels in English lined the descent. Careful to avoid ruts in the pavement, I bombed down the hill and reached town in darkness.

Spotting Ricardo’s shop, rooms, and restaurant, I inquired about a cabaña and was delighted to secure Casa Sol. After checking in, I rode further into town to buy a beer and then stopped at Taquería El Machaca for some excellent tacos.

The day ended with a hot shower and the warmth of the heater in my cabaña. I settled in and began editing this report, grateful for the comforts after a long, challenging ride.













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