Baja Divide - Day 18 • Vizcaíno to San Ignacio

Baja Divide - Day 18
January 12, Vizcaíno to San Ignacio - 48 Miles
Start 10:33 AM
Finish 6:06 PM
Total Duration 7:33
Moving Time 5:20
Stopped Time 2:13
Ascent 1,450’
Descent 1,289’
Tour Total 839 Miles
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/247386481

Last night, I had a wild adventure at the only bar in Vizcaíno. The night unfolded unexpectedly as I found myself surrounded by locals who kept the beers flowing far beyond my limit. This morning, I woke up groggy but amused in Room Nine at the Vizcaíno Real hotel. Despite feeling late, the time change made it hard to judge whether I had truly slept in. After packing up, I stopped by an OXXO for water and cookies—the simple comforts of travel.

Slipping into a clean cycling kit felt refreshing before I headed out for breakfast. A hearty bowl of menudo soup provided a warm send-off from town. The route led me across sandy terrain through a sprawling junkyard, eventually reconnecting with Highway Mex 1. A quick stop at a Pemex for peach juice and more cookies fueled my ride.

The journey was divided between stretches on Mex 1 and parallel routes. I’d heard that the alternate path was heavy with sand, so I opted to stay on the highway for a more predictable ride to San Ignacio.

The landscape featured endless expanses of scrub and cacti, but there were moments of surprise—an orchard of fruit trees and a grove of date palms broke the monotony. Midway up a climb, a truck honked despite my keeping to the narrow shoulder beyond the white line, underscoring the challenge of sharing the road while battling a persistent headwind.

The highway offered little solace—no services, no shade, just an unrelenting slog. Overlanders in RVs passed by periodically, breaking the solitude. I kept checking my mileage and consulting the map, willing the journey to end before dusk.

Finally, after conquering another grueling climb, San Ignacio emerged on the horizon. Two miles before town, I navigated a military checkpoint before descending into this unexpected oasis. The lush valley, dense with date palms, was a stark contrast to the arid desert. Riding through groves and alongside a shimmering body of water felt surreal.

In the heart of town, I made my way to the colonial center to visit the Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán. Just as I was about to snap a photo, I encountered Cori, a fellow Baja Divide cyclist from Tucson. Moments later, we were joined by Ry from Chicago. Conversations flowed easily as we shared stories and connections—Cori had ridden the Great Divide in 2022, the same summer as me, while Ry knew Dylan and Sarah, friends I had met during my time on the Divide and in Kyrgyzstan. They confirmed my decision to stick to the highway—the sandy route I skipped had been a grueling stretch filled with hike-a-bike sections. Ry’s journey would continue south all the way to Tierra del Fuego.

They recommended Hotel Posada, where I eventually checked in for the night. Dinner at Rancho Grande in the town square capped off a long day of riding.

This marks the southernmost point my journey will take me. With my return flight from San Diego looming, pushing further south isn’t feasible. I plan to spend two nights in San Ignacio before catching a bus north to Ensenada. In the coming days, I’ll share an epilogue, a stats page, and a gear review to wrap up this adventure. Thanks for following!









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