Baja Divide

January 19, 2025

Baja Divide - Day 10

January 4, 2025 San Augustin to Cataviña - 25 Miles

Start 8:13 AM

Finish 1:44 PM

Total Duration 5:27

Moving Time 3:45

Stopped Time 1:42

Ascent 1,084’

Descent 1,138’

Tour Total 423 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/246026480

The biggest downside of camping at San Agustín was the motor traffic. The lonchería sat right alongside Highway Mex 1, and a semi-truck idled out front for hours. I inserted my earplugs immediately, hoping to muffle the noise. Other trucks pulled in, along with smaller vehicles, and people moved about, talking while dogs barked and music played. Eventually, the activity settled down, and I managed to get some rest.

By 6 AM, the sun was already up, and I began stirring around 6:30. Others were also starting their day. Though still a bit nippy, the morning wasn’t as cold as previous ones. The dry air left no condensation on my tent, which made packing up easier.

I always place rocks next to the stakes at the ends of my tent to prevent them from getting kicked loose during the night. Despite this precaution, I kicked one loose this morning and spent ages searching for it. If I hadn’t found it, I was prepared to blame one of the friendly local dogs for the theft.

Back at the lonchería, the proprietor kindly cooked me a hearty breakfast of eggs with peppers, French fries, beans, tortillas, and coffee. She also let me charge my devices while I ate—a much-appreciated gesture.

Without a GPS track to guide me, I decided to find a dirt road heading east, figuring it would eventually reconnect with the route. Initially, I followed a dry streambed, but the soft sand quickly forced me to walk. Soft sand and gravel have been constant challenges out here. Veering off, I opted to ride across harder terrain, and after about a mile and a half, I rejoined the route.

For the first time this trip, I didn’t need my jacket in the morning. It stayed stowed in its compression bag as I pedaled past a working ranch. A friendly white dog greeted me, wagging its tail enthusiastically, while a man paced in his front yard among a collection of parked vehicles.

The trail meandered, with multiple paths running parallel, and I worked to stay on the correct route while seeking the firmest ground. Another dry riverbed lay ahead, its deep, soft sand making for a slow crossing.

The route often paralleled the highway; I could sometimes see or hear it in the distance. The terrain alternated between decent riding and frustrating stretches of hike-a-bike through loose stones and sand.

While scrolling Strava the night before, I noticed that Patrick—whom I’d met two years ago on the Trans-Mexico Route—was currently bikepacking in Guatemala. On Instagram, I saw that Jeff, a rider I met on my 2021 Western Express, was in Colombia, while Alex and Marina, who were ahead of me on my first Trans-Mexico tour, were exploring New Zealand. It’s great to see so many of my cycling friends out there pursuing adventures.

Although I hadn’t encountered anyone on this trip, the Baja Divide bikepacking Facebook group was buzzing with activity. A few riders were just ahead of me, and someone had checked into FASS Bike Shop in Vicente Guerrero. One rider even reported losing their phone on the segment I was navigating, so I kept an eye out for it.

More spikes kept embedding themselves in my tires. I ignored them unless they began rubbing against my frame bags, knowing they would eventually snap off. The sealant in my tires likely held the remaining tips in place. Out here, distinguishing friendly vegetation from the angry, spiky bushes is an art form. An unfriendly tree snagged me, leaving fresh holes in my arm, while tiny burrs relentlessly attached themselves to my socks.

The map indicated I was near Mesa Agua Dulce, and the soft sand made progress slow. Persevering, I sought harder terrain wherever possible. At one point, the route passed between two house-sized boulders, forming a natural gateway. A small hut nestled beside one of the rocks reminded me of a sentry post.

By noon, I’d covered sixteen miles. My leg warmers were driving me crazy, so I pulled over to remove them. My scraped knee had healed significantly, which made riding more comfortable.

The route hairpinned at 12:45 PM, leading me back to Highway Mex 1. I followed it six miles off-route to reach the town of Cataviña, where I planned to resupply for the next segment.

Before entering the town, I stopped to see the Cataviña cave paintings—pinturas rupestres. It’s surreal to imagine people once living in this remote, rugged environment.

Arriving in Cataviña, I checked into the Hotel Misión Santa María. The town itself was sparse, with limited amenities, and there was no electrical power between 2 and 4 PM. After a much-needed shower, I washed my kit and spent two hours painstakingly trying to straighten my derailleur. Fingers crossed it will hold for the upcoming stretch.

Later, I crossed the street for a satisfying meal of fried chicken and French fries. I also stocked up on essentials, purchasing eight liters of water and enough food to sustain me for the next leg of the journey. With no resupply points for the next 120 miles, it could take up to four days to reach the next stop.