Baja Divide - Day 6 • Ejido Eréndira to Vicente Guerrero

Baja Divide - Day 6
December 31, 2024
Ejido Eréndira to Vicente Guerrero - 53 Miles
Start 8:41 AM
Finish 3:56 PM
Total Duration 7:15
Moving Time 5:49
Stopped Time 1:27
Ascent 2,649’
Descent 2,626’
Tour Total 268 Miles

Last night at Coyote Cal’s, Rick’s margaritas packed a punch. The Dos Equis and shots from the bottle with the scorpion inside were also flowing freely. I turned in early but woke up at midnight, enduring a restless night in the bottom bunk filled with vivid dreams. By 6:30 AM, the first light stirred me, and an hour later, Rick’s cheerful call announced breakfast was ready.

At the table, I met two motorcycle adventurers, Brent from Utah and Ed from Southern California. They had rolled in late after I’d gone to bed and had enjoyed a few cocktails themselves. They were ten days into their Baja journey, heading back home after reaching La Paz. Brent and Ed regaled me with tales of their rides, hitting speeds of 30 to 50 miles an hour on dirt, with Ed boasting a top speed of 90 mph on one stretch. Breakfast was a hearty spread of fried eggs, bacon, waffles, and a pancake, fueling me for the day ahead.

The sky was gray and overcast as I set out, dressed in cycling shorts, patched-over shorts, socks, a shirt, a long-sleeve wool layer, and a gilet. The sun teased through the clouds as I started on a couple of miles of dirt road before reaching the small town of Ejido Eréndira and its brief stretch of pavement. The route soon veered back onto dirt, offering views of the ocean.

I passed a bufadero, a marine geyser reminiscent of Old Faithful, its fine sea spray filling the air and leaving a salty tang on my lips. The path then wound away from the coast, presenting steep, challenging climbs. On one particularly gnarly ascent, I lost my balance and toppled over, scraping my knee—just a small nick with a drop of blood. Overheating, I removed my long-sleeve wool shirt and pressed on.

The trail turned into a series of steep, washed-out sections. Rick had warned me about the Baja 1000 riders, whose antics leave the roads in rough shape. With no government maintenance, the terrain was a mix of straight-up climbs, switchbacks, and slaloming paths. At the 18-mile mark, I finally reached a wider, less worn track.

Rounding a curve, I encountered a bull casually strolling onto the road. A short while later, I entered the Mex 1 highway town of Colonet at 12:40 PM. It was New Year’s Eve, and I craved the comforts of a hotel and a good meal. The route ahead looped into the mountains for 83 miles with 7,100 feet of climbing before returning to Vicente Guerrero. Given the high elevations and rough roads, some riders took five days to complete it. Alternatively, the highway offered a direct 26-mile ride to Vicente Guerrero.

The highway traffic wasn’t too heavy, and I had an average six-inch shoulder, occasionally opting for a parallel dirt track. I stopped at Taquería El Poblano for two delicious tacos and a Coke. The woman behind the counter couldn’t believe I had biked all the way from the United States. Back on the highway, I plugged my phone into my dynamo and donned my gilet. With a long stretch of a four-foot shoulder, I made excellent time.

Camalú, another small highway town with a traffic light, marked my return to the official route. By taking the highway, I had shaved off 57 miles and saved significant time. At 3 PM, I stopped at an OXXO for a Gatorade before reaching the edge of Vicente Guerrero by 3:30 PM. The highway widened into four lanes, and I crossed a large bridge with sturdy, cast-concrete BC guardrails.

Unable to find the hotel listed on the route, I stumbled upon Hotel Posada San Martín. For $54, it offered a beautiful room and was a far better value than my previous night’s accommodations. I then rode over to FASS Bike, reportedly the best bike shop on the route, hoping to meet Salvador, the proprietor. Unfortunately, the shop was closed for the New Year’s Eve holiday.








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