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Introduction

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¡Hola Amigos! Saludos a todos! I’m back for another cycling adventure, and this time it’s the  Baja Divide —a 1,730-mile bikepacking route created in 2016 by Nicholas Carmen and Lael Wilcox. It was subsequently revised by Pat Boyle, Evan Christenson, and Logan Watts. Originally, I had planned to tackle this ride last year, but hernia surgery had other plans. Now, I’m setting out to connect my North American routes with my Trans-Mexican network. I’ve got 25 days—almost my entire winter teaching break—but I doubt it’ll be enough to complete the whole thing. Chances are, I’ll be back next year to finish what I start. My journey begins at San Diego Airport, where I’ll pedal south through the rugged mountain chains that form the spine of the Baja Peninsula. Along the way, I’ll crisscross between the Pacific Coast and the Sea of Cortez on dirt tracks. The route is 95% unpaved and features an impressive 96,349 feet of climbing. The last time I was on my gravel bike was during the  Si...

Table of Contents

• Introduction • Table of Contents   • Day 1 San Diego to Pio Pico  • Day 2 Pio Pico to El Compadre • Day 3 El Compadre to Ojos Negros • Day 4 Ojos Negros to Ejido Uruapan • Day 5 Ejido Uruapan to Eréndira • Day 6 Ejido Eréndira to Vicente Guerrero • Day 7 Vicente Guerrero to Venustiano Carranza (Santa María) • Day 8 Venustiano Carranza (Santa María) to 30°24'52" N 115°30'30" W • Day 9 30°24'52" N 115°30'30" W to San Augustin • Day 10 San Augustin to Cataviña • Day 11 Cataviña to 29°13'38" N 114°48'57" W • Day 12 29°13'38" N 114°48'57" W to 28°52'33" N 114°24'47" W • Day 13 28°52'33" N 114°24'47" W to Rosarito • Day 14 Rosarito to Bahia de los Angeles • Day 15 Bahia de los Angeles to 28°31′41″ N  113°9′25″ W • Day 16 28°31′41″ N  113°9′25″ W to 28°6'14" N 113°20'14" W • Day 17 28°6'14" N 113°20'14" W to Vizcaíno • Day 18 Vizcaíno to San Ignacio...

Baja Divide - Day 1 • San Diego to Pio Pico

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Baja Divide - Day 1  December 26, 2024 San Diego to Pio Pico - 34 Miles Start 1:53 PM  Finish 6:50 PM Total Duration 4:53 Moving Time 3:26 Stopped Time 1:27 Ascent 1,720’ Descent 876’ Tour Total 34 Miles Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/244511862   After a whirlwind week filled with end-of-semester grading, dismantling and packing my bike, hosting a holiday party, and enjoying Christmas festivities, I finally woke up early, ready for the next adventure. An Uber ride to JFK went smoothly, and the bike check-in process was surprisingly hassle-free. On the flight, I managed to catch some sleep and watched the classic film Chinatown. By the time I landed in San Diego, the reassembly of my bike took longer than anticipated. I chose a spot in the terminal to work—a brightly sunlit area saturated with an endless loop of Christmas music. It wasn’t until 2 PM that I finally pedaled out of the airport. The journey started along the coast, passing the San Diego Naval Base....

Baja Divide - Day 2 • Pio Pico to El Compadre

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Baja Divide - Day 2 December 27, 2024 Pio Pico to El Compadre - 45 Miles Start  7:08 AM Finish  5:36 PM Total Duration 10:22 Moving Time 6:57 Stopped Time 3:25 Ascent 6,887’  Descent 4,777’ Tour Total  79 Miles Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/244757122 My first night out was tolerable, though cold. I slept in my clothes, cocooned in my sleeping bag. While it never dropped below freezing, the chill made for a restless night. A car rolled down the dirt road late in the evening, and another passed by early in the morning. Dawn didn’t break until around 6:30 AM, accompanied by the distant roar of an interstate and the hum of jets overhead. The coyotes' howls added a wild ambiance, and I even heard a pack circling near my tent at daybreak. Packing up was slow and deliberate. As the first rays of sunlight bathed the Otay Ranch Reserve, the mountains came alive in spectacular hues. A lone hiker passed by as I prepared to leave. The climb began almost immediately, ...

Baja Divide - Day 3 • El Compadre to Ojos Negros

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Baja Divide - Day 3 December 28, 2024 El Compadre to Ojos Negros - 56 Miles Start  7:48 AM Finish  5:45 PM Total Duration 9:47 Moving Time 6:45 Stopped Time 3:02 Ascent 3707' Descent 4485' Tour Total 135 Miles Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/244815708 With the short days and cold nights, I’m forced to spend nearly 12 hours each night nestled in my sleeping bag. Last night, I managed to stay warm, though it took a long time for my feet to stop aching from the chill. My Therm-a-Rest has a small leak, so I had to refill it in the middle of the night. I turned from side to side, vivid dreams punctuating the restless hours, until I finally woke with the first light. Packing up was slow in the cold morning air. Thankfully, my water bottles hadn’t frozen overnight, but the humidity inside the tent had left it damp. Rolling it up was unpleasant. The compression bags and Voilé straps were a struggle for my cold fingers. After lubing my chain, I fueled up with a granola bar a...

Baja Divide - Day 4 • Ojos Negros to Ejido Uruapan

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Baja Divide - Day 4  December 29, 2024 Ojos Negros to Ejido Uruapan - 44 Miles Start 7:53 AM Finish 4:53 PM Total Duration 8:59 Moving Time 6:13 Stopped Time 2:46 Ascent 3,319’  Descent 4,924’ Tour Total 179 Miles Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/245000334 I slept wonderfully in my hotel room, enveloped in the rare comfort of a proper bed. Freshly showered and scrubbed, I reveled in the warmth of the room’s heater, staying toasty all night. With no distractions, I caught up on my reports, feeling rested and refreshed for the day ahead. Pete had recommended Rosita’s Café, which had been closed the previous night but was open this morning. I indulged in a plate of huevos rancheros, paired with steaming coffee and a glass of fresh orange juice. It was exactly the fuel I needed for the day. The morning air was cold, so I started off layered up with leg warmers, a long-sleeve wool shirt, and my gilet. After breakfast, I stripped down to my cycling shorts, jersey, and gilet...

Baja Divide - Day 5 • Ejido Uruapan to Eréndira

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Baja Divide - Day 5 December 30, 2024 Ejido Uruapan to Eréndira - 36 Miles Start 7:54 AM Finish 2:01 PM Total Duration 6:04 Moving Time 4:42 Stopped Time 1:22 Ascent 2,770’ Descent 3,370’ Tour Total 215 Miles Details at:  https://ridewithgps.com/trips/245140419 I slept surprisingly well in the picnic area next to the Aguas Termales in Ejido Uruapan. My tent was pitched on level ground beside a picnic table, strategically shaded from a nearby street lamp. The night was cold, but my sleeping bag kept me warm. Camping near towns always comes with the noise factor, but I was prepared. When the dogs began barking in the middle of the night, I slipped in my earplugs and drifted back to sleep. With the long winter nights, I spent many hours snug inside my tent. At 6:30 AM, the first light broke, and I stepped out into the chilly morning. The fog hung thick in the air, and everything was damp. My tent fly was wet with condensation, but I had no choice but to pack it up as it was. The picni...